The Legend, Bali
About Bali
More than four thousands years ago, Bali was an emerald green, tropical rain forest covered the island. The first wave of human arrivals from across the seas brought with them techniques for rice cultivation, new languages and new customs. These early immigrants and others who followed over the years helped to create a haven, providing today’s visitors with a wealth of sights and sounds, dances, music, arts and crafts.
The Paradise Island
Bali has been described by many different names - “The Hidden Paradise”, “The Last Paradise on Earth”, “Morning of The World”, “Island of God”, and “Island of Thousand Temples”. This Island of Gods is situated approximately on latitude 8° South and longitude 115° East. Bali and the neighboring island of Lombok are the most westerly of the Little Sunda Islands and part of the 13,700 islands that make up Indonesia, the largest archipelago in the world.
The island itself covers an area of 5,632,860 square kilometers, with a volcanic mountain range that stretches from the western tip to the eastern side of the island, with Mt. Agung being the highest peak.
For many centuries, -until today-, Bali has attracted visitors from all over the world. It is so attractive for its colorful ceremonies, natural scenery, and the ever-smiling people. Their colorful religious festivals and ceremonies, the traditional music and dances have been a way of life, and have unwittingly contributed much to the success of tourism here. The Balinese people are predominantly Hindu and their traditional and religious beliefs are as strong today as they ever were.
Bali, The History
In 7th century, perhaps Bali was predominantly Buddhist. Yi Tsing, a Chinese scholar, on his trip to India in 670 AD reported that he visited a Buddhist country called Bali.
The old Balinese kingdom got its glory at 11 century. There is a monument called Gunung Kawi (means The Poet’s Mountain) which houses several royal tombs of noblemen and kings of the 11th century. At this period Bali was governed by king Dharmodayana Warmmadewa, also known as Udayana and his wife -a Javanese Queen- named Gunapriyadharmapatni, also known as Mahendradatta. They sent their son Airlangga to study in the Emperor of Java. He at last became the king in Java and rebuilt a new kingdom with two autonomous province Java and Bali. He then appointed his brother, Anak Wungsu, as ruler of Bali. This was the period when the old Javanese language, Kawi, became the language used by the aristocracy, as well as one of the many Javanese traits and customs adopted by the cause.
In 1284, the East Javanese king Kertanegara conquered Bali and ruled over it from Java. In 1292, king Kertanegara was murdered. Bali got its freedom for about fifty years. In 1343, a brilliant General named Gadjah Mada from Majapahit - a powerful empire of east Java- with his strong armies came to invade this island. And the glorious period would come to an end. Though he conquered Bali but the General made Bali became an important part of this East Java Empire. This Hindu Majapahit Empire gave Bali the form and structures that stand to this day. The caste system which is still strong until today, the rules and rituals, the arts, the architecture of house and the temple were all passed on from this powerful empire.
But when Islam successfully gained followers and then gained foothold throughout Sumatra and Java in the 15th century, this powerful Hindu Majapahit Kingdom at last collapsed in 1515 and went into gradual decline. But this new religion was not easily accepted by the people of the kingdom. At the time there were large numbers of Hindu priests, artists, noblemen and Hindu followers which left Majapahit and then escaped to Bali. Here they blended their belief with the traditions of the local people. This blend became the embryo of the Hindu now in Bali. This was the period when “gamelan” - Balinese music instrument, dances, the art of drama and opera (the Gambuh and Arja) and the shadow puppet (Wayang Kulit) would develop and flourish. But this period of the rise of Islam was also the time when the first westerners were beginning to appear which at last built their colonization in this part of the world.
The first European came to visit Bali was the Dutch Admiral, Cornelis De Houtman. He and his troop arrived off the coast of Bali in 1598 and friendly welcomed by the king Watu Renggong who was the king of united Bali. Encouraged by this gesture the Dutchmen baptized this island “Jonck Hollandt” or the New Holland. Since this period the influence of the Dutch grew over the archipelago. But with the death of Watu Renggong, the other rulers would rule independently while still paying homage to the Dewa Agung, the king of Klungkung.
In 1840 Dutch successfully began to control the northern part of Bali. Starting from this area then the Dutch took over and occupied the all island. The Dutch troop with their modern weaponary was too strong for the ill local forces. But they did not want to surrender. So the local kings led their followers in “puputan” - fight until dead. They faced the Dutch troop with their traditional weapon. Those were still standing killed by their own followers, or they killed themselves in order to assure their heavenly path to the glorious paradise to join their ancestors.
This “Puputan” happened between 1906 and 1908 when the kings of Denpasar and Klungkung chose this path than surrender. After this “Puputan”, Dutch could successfully control this island. During the World War II the Dutch were expelled by the Japanese, then occupied Indonesia from 1942 - 1945. On February 19, 1942, the Japanese landed about 500 troops on Sanur beach to occupy Bali.
Though the Japanese occupation was only for three years, but it strongly inspired the people to get the freedom. Some days after Nagasaki and Hiroshima were completely destroyed by atomic bomb, a famous young leader named Soekarno who was part of Balinese declared the independence of Indonesia on 17 August 1945. Balinese people are proud to be the part of this new country.
Regencies of BaliBadung Regency
Badung Regency, covering the areas of Nusa Dua, Tanjung Benoa, Jimbaran, Kuta, Legian and the airport, is the richest regency with tourist facilities and activities.
Nusa Dua is the first development in Indonesia with very careful planning The implementation of Balinese traditional philosophy and international health and environmental preservation standard makes Nusa Dua one of the very few modern resorts with traditional, cultural touches for leisure and business purposes.
On the southern most tip of Badung is Uluwatu Temple built on top of a steep cliff on an elevation of some 100 meters above the sea level. Uluwatu is one of the main temples in Bali. There are a small number of monkeys living in the premises. Uluwatu is recommended for sunsets viewing.
Serangan is not very far from Nusa Dua, is known as the turtle island, and for its Sakenan Temple. During Kuningan day the temple is visited by thousands of pilgrims with colorful dresses crossing the narrow strait in small canoes Tanjung Benoa is good place for water sports.
A drive to northern part of Badung offers interesting places to visit. Taman Ayun Temple is the royal family temple of Mengwi, than was an important kingdom of Bali. Sangeh, a village some 15 minutes away from Taman Ayun is noted for its monkey forest and Bukit Sari Temple. There exist two groups of monkeys who are not in good term “as neighbors”. It is advisable to be careful with the monkeys as sometimes they may turn naughty.
Last but not least, Kuta area is an international village. The long white sandy beaches from the airport until Canggu, night lives and all that make Kuta one of the most popular resorts in particular for the younger generations. Australians and Japanese perhaps are the majority among the visitors staying in Kuta. Visitors are requested to swim only the safe areas marked by the flags as the sea is directly exposed to the Indonesia Ocean with very strong under-tows.
Gianyar Regency
The Gianyar regency was home to Bali’s oldest kingdoms, the Buddhist Warmadewa dynasty in Bedulu-Pejeng that ruled until the 14th century, and another center in Batuan. The conquering Javanese set up court in Samprangan, which later moved east to Gelgel and Klungkung. The area faded in history until the 18th century when the Klungkung family founded Sukawati, a short-lived dynasty that fell with the rising Gianyar kingdom. Rivals from Sukawati set up courts in Ketewel, Singapadu, Negara, Peliatan, Ubud and Tegallalang which led to decades of warfare.
A powerful Gelgel family in Blahbatuh rose during the 19 th century, Dutch assistance restored Gianyar, but not without gaining concessions from the king which spared it the fate of other South Balinese courts in the early 1900s.
Gianyar has everything from stone carving and daily Barong-Rangda trace dances in Batubulan, Jewelry in Celuk, and huge art market in Sukawati for the best range of souvenirs including locally made fans and puppets.
Gianyar town produces colorful woven cloth, Blahbatuh has a foundry where musical instruments are made. Performances of trance and monkey chant dances are held in nearby Bona, home to palm leaf crafts and bamboo furniture.
The Bedulu - Pejeng area has Bali’s oldest temples, including the Goa Gajah (elephant cave), carved relieves at Yeh Pulu, the huge Samuan Tiga complex, fantastic statues at Kebo Edan and Pusering Jagat, and the famous bronze moon gong and coconut-shell carving.
Natural beauty abounds with a huge waterfall at Tegenungan and spectacular terraced rice-fields at Tegallalang. The Ayung River offers rafting, and thousands of herons return every sunset at Petulu.
Bangli Regency
The cool, mountainous regency of Bangli was long fought over by rulers from neighboring kingdoms, for here lies lake Batur, the major source of irrigation water for most of South and East Bali and parts of the north. The ruling house emerged during the early years of the Klungkung kingdom during the 1700s to which it is related.
In the mid 1800s Bangli sought Dutch protection from Klungkung, Karangasem and Buleleng, but by the end of the 19 century it was joining its former enemies against powerful Mengwi to the west Due to its early recognition of the Dutch Bangli was spared during the conquest of South Bali in the early 1900s. The steady ascent through Bangli passes through tidy villages and roads lined with groves of bamboo and coffee.
In Bangli town the ancient Kehen temple is under a huge banyan tree. Celebrations feature ritual basis warrior dances with different weapons, and towering offerings fill the court yards every 3 years. Nearby is the Sasana Budaya Art Center with occasional art exhibitions and performances. The view beyond the town Bukit Demulih is breathtaking. An interesting village is Penglipuran, with its neatly terraced street.
Higher up on Mount Batur at Penelokan are spectacular views of the active volcanic cone and peaceful lake below. In the village of Kintamani is Pura Batur, a huge complex of temples for the Like goddess, perched on the crater rim. Beyond the village in Penulisan is Tegeh Koripan temple, an ancient and mysterious temple often hidden by mist and reached by a long flight of steps. A winding road leads down into the crater to the soothing Toya Bungkah hot springs at the edge of lake Batur.
Hiking up the volcano is possible. The Balai Seni Art Center has spacious gardens and a library. Across the lake is Trunyan where the dead are left exposed to the elements. Visitors may see this cemetery but not the hugs statue housed in a towering pagoda in the village. A rarely held festival features den ferriswheeels and masked dancers who whip by standers.
Klungkung Regency
With Bali’s defeat in the 14 century, invading Javanese set up court in Samprangan and then at Gelgel in the 1 An internal revolt during the mid 1600s moved the capital to Klungkung. Strife over the next 2 centuries caused factions to set up rival courts throughout Bali, yet all recognize Klungkung as the highest royal authority In the early l9 as rulers of South Bali were subdued by the Dutch.
Klungkung remained the last stronghold until 1908 a towering new monument commemorates the final battle. Most of the palace was destroyed except for the main gate and 2 pavilions, Kerta Gosa is famous for its painted ceiling of punishments in hell, animal tales, and an earthquake chart, and the Bale Kambang has paintings of Buddhist lore, folktales, and traditional, astrology. Artists from Kamasan still paint in this puppet-style, a school perpetuates this ancient art.
A more recent craft turns to used artillery cases for metalwork. Near the coast is the old capital of Gelgel with the Pura Dasar temple The beaches at Jumpai are important for purification rites. A cross the water is Nusa Penida, former island of exile for Klungkung’s criminal and home to the great fang demon and the Dalem temple, both associated with black magic. The island and neighboring Lembongan and Ceningan have caves to explore and excellent snorkeling; seaweed is also farmed in shallow coastal beds.
Klungkung’s market is great for textiles from the mountain villages and those further east. North of town is the peaceful Taman Sari temple, out west is Tiingan where musical instruments are made, and going east is a huge bridge spanning the wide Unda river. Colorful umbrellas made in Satria line the streets, and in nearby Paksa Bali village trance battles between deities occur. Off the main road, a huge sand and gravel quarry operates continuously with a blazing furnace. Along the coast is the fishing and salt-making village of Kusamba, where thousands of bats and a huge python live in the cave-temple of Goa Lawah.
Karangasem Regency
Karangasem has a rich variety of older customs found in villages that resisted Javanese influences after the 14th century. The royal family, related to Gelgel, became independent and in the early 1700s challenged Klungkung. Internal strife led to exile and formation of a rival house in Lombok, which returned to defeat its own family on Bali and the taking of Buleleng.
This real ended when Dutch subdued Buleleng in the mid 1800s, and Dutch assisted rebellion in Lombok ousted the royal family in the late 1800s. By recognizing Dutch superiority, Karangasem remained infect when South Bali was conquered in he early 1900s.
After Mount Agung erupted in 1963 the capital changed names to Amlapura. The Puri Agung Kangingan palace features a blend of Balinese, Dutch, and Chinese architecture. To the south are the ruins of the Taman Ujung pleasure palace.
A more intact one is up north at Tirtagangga with swimming pools fed cool springs and an excellent place to stay. Outside the town is the coastal tourist area of Candi Dasa, named after an old temple on the hillside, across the lagoon is a Gandhi meditation center. Snorkeling around a shipwreck is superb up north at Tulamben.
Padangbai has the Silayukti sea temple and the ferry to Lombok.
Tenganan is the only place in Indonesia where double ikat gringsing cloth is woven. Festivals here and in Dauh Tukad in June – July feature wooden ferris-wheels and ritual battles with thorny leaves.
Nearby villages of Dauh Tukad, Bungaya, Asak, Timbrah, Perasi, Bugbug, Jasi, Ababi, Seraya, Sengkidu, Ngis, Bebandem and Padangkerta have colorful ritual with ceremonial dances for women and men, trance battles, and spectacular offerings. Beautiful brocades are woven in Sidemen.
Winding mountain road through salak fruit farms and terraced hills lead to Besakih, Bali’s most important temple complex. Visitors may only see the huge temple from the outside but the view is gorgeous and the air refreshing. Mount Agung should only be climbed by experienced hikers with a guide.
Tabanan Regency
Tabanan has its roots in the 14th century when Javanese invaders settled in the area. As they expanded their territory, they came into conflict with the Mengwi kingdom, founded during the mid 1600s with the fall of Gelgel and allied with Buleleng. In the 18th century Mengwi was the 2nd most powerful royal house after Klungkung.
Whose support it enjoyed. Internal conflict in the late 1700s weakened Mengwi and led to territorial losses to Tabanan which were retaken in the mid 1800s, By the late 1800s further conflict erupted and Klungkung with drew its support, opening the way for its destruction by Klungkung, Badung, Tabanan, Bangli and the Dutch. Tabanan got most of Mengwi, but rising Dutch interests in Bali and the refusal of Tabanan to give in led to its end in 1906 with the imprisonment and suicide of the ruler and his son. Krambitan village has 2 palaces, puppets style paintings, and the exciting tektekan exorcist dance dram with music from struck bamboo and giant wooden cowbells. Tista boasts the special lekoandir dance done by young girls. Panarukan has good carving, and ceramics are made in Pejaten. Upland Blayu is famous for its woven brocades. Extending from the mountains to the sea, Tabanan has a wide variety of natural beauty.
The Beratan Lake area has a huge botanical garden at Bedugul with produce farms at Candi Kuning. The Ulun Danu Temple to the lake goddess sits at the water’s edge, for the lake irrigates Tabanan’s ricefields. On Mount Batukaru is Pura Luhur, the royal ancestral temple. Below this is Jatiluwih with spectacular views of Bali. The Yeh Panas hot springs at Penatahan, and the beautiful Alas Kedaton temple. At the coast is the famous Tanah Lot temple on a rocky protrusion that becomes an island during high tide. Tabanan is a tidy town with a Museum Subak to North of the town a memorial in Marya Theater honors the dancer Mario. North of the town a memorial in Marga commemorates the slaughter of Balinese resistance fighter against the Dutch.
As yet Tabanan is little known on the tourist map, but actually it has a lot of fascinating in its vicinity which have yet to be developed in to their full potentials. Tabanan is tidy town with a museum Subak devoted to rice cultivation and the Gedung Marya Theater honors the famous dancers Mario.
Buleleng Regency
Most of the north coast falls under the regency of Buleleng, once Bali’s chief port. This long contact with outside influences is reflected in the ethnic diversity of its population and as a starting place for new artistic developments which spread south. The ruling house came to power in the 17th century and conquered parts of Karangasem.
Jembrana, and East Java, forming an alliance with Mengwi that lasted until the end of the 18th century when Karangasem returned to power and took Buleleng. During the mid 1800s the Dutch defeated Buleleng in their first attempt to take Bali.
The Dutch made Singaraja Bali’s first capital, which still has some colonial buildings and Chinese temples. The largest collection in Bali of lontar palm leaf books is kept at the Gedong Kertya library outside the city the Sasana Budaya Art Center is more central. Out west is the tourist resort area of Lovina, with quiet black sand beaches and dolphin shows. Exciting bull races take place annually in some neighboring villages. Views are dramatic from the winding coastal road. Relax in the sulfurous Air Panas hot springs at Banjar out west, which also has a Buddhist monastery. Ice cold swim can be enjoyed at Air Sanih out east, fed by cool natural springs. In the mountains south of Singaraja are the silversmith village of Bratan and the dramatic Gitgit waterfall with picnic facilities.
Higher up are beautiful views of lakes Tamblingan and Buyan, monkeys often play at the roadside. Out west are the Pulaki and Dalem Melanting and the graveside of the folk hero Jayaprana.
Toward the east are the elaborately carved Pura Beji at Sangsit and Pura Maduwe Karang at Kubutambahan with the famous flower wheeled bicycle, and the beautiful Kertalangu temple and the unusual Ponjok Batu formed of countless stone slabs. The Pura Dalem temple at Jagaraga has relieves of crashing planes and car robberies, and Sawan has a foundry for making musical instruments. Sembiran has many ancient temples, and nearby Tejakula boasts some forms of ritual dance.
Jembrana Regenc
Some of Bali’s oldest remains of prehistoric humans have been found in the Jembrana regency. Legend tells that sparsely populated West Bali got that way because its early inhabitants were cursed into invisibility for having violated the daughter of a powerful priest. A ruling family related to the Gelgel house was established here in the mid 1400s, but a dispute among its two founders led to civil war and a destruction of the court. For a while the area was considered to be marginal part of the Badung kingdom, and the prince from Sulawesiset himself up as ruler during the 17th century with little problem. Karangasem nearly took Jembrana in the late 1800s, but Jembrana surrendered peacefully to the Dutch before rival Kingdoms were subdued. Most of Jembrana includes the forests, mountain and coast of the West Bali National Park and Reserve. Visitor must obtain the necessary permit and guide the park headquarters in Cekik. You might be lucky to see the rate White Bali Starling bird, or maybe the roar of the Balinese tiger, long thought to be extinct.
Excellent diving and snorkeling can be found around Menjangan Island, with the Banyu Wedang hot springs nearby on the coast. Catch a ferry to Java at Gilimanuk port. Close to the district capital of Negara is temple of Gede Prancak near a river, while further is the Rambut Siwi complex has magnificent ocean views. A large fishing community has been established at Pengambengan, and there is an excellent sufing beach of Medewi. Cloves are grown on plantations in the foothills around Asah Duren. Bigger is better in Jembrana: huge bamboo xylophones of the gamelan jegog accompanies martial arts and dances. Kendang mebarung competitions of large oversized drums are sometimes held. Exciting makepung bull races take places in the villages of Banyubiru and Delod Brawah during the dry season. Joged bumbung groups with flirtatious dancers accompanied by smaller bamboo instruments are popular around Tegal Cangkring.
Denpasar Regency
Denpasar has recently been separated administratively from Badung Regency, to become a municipality, though the capital city of Badung for the time being is still located with in Denpasar promises.
Tourist objects of interest in Denpasar are: Museum Bali, rich with archeological objects and traditional artifacts, displayed from Tuesday to Sunday. The Museum Bali is a place not to miss in order to understand Bali better.
Werdhi Budaya, Art center is the venue of the yearly Bali Art Festivals, a cultural event lasting for one full month between mid June to mid July each year. The festival features: parades, cultural shows, traditional arts demonstrations, crafts exhibitions, etc. participated not only by local participants but also, National and International cultural groups, making it an International Cultural Forum. Indonesia Art Institute, STSI Denpasar, north of Werdhi Budaya is another object of interest, in particular, for those lovers of arts, Balinese music and dances.
Denpasar Market on gajah Mada street a place of beauty, local fruits, flowers, spices up to fresh fish, chickens, pigs, bamboo baskets, pandanus leafmats and what not, on sale daily.
The “Catur Muka”, four-faces, statue standing at the center of a cross-road is the very center of Denpasar and the land-mark of the city.
Pura Jagat Natha, next to the Bali Museum is one of the main temple in Bali, visited by pilgrims during full moon for making offering and praying. A big yearly sacrifice, Tawur, approaching Balinese New Year Nyepi is conducted on Puputan Ground in front of the temple. Followed by Ogoh-Ogoh parade, fearful looking, gigantic “dools” along the streets downtown Denpasar city.
source: baratatours.net
